In the 1950s and '60s, thrifty Jewish housewives and, especially, my mother, cooked tough cuts of meat and a few carrots and potatoes at a low temperature for endless hours in a bright orange Descoware Dutch oven, confident that she could go away all day and still serve our family a pot roast so tender it would put a smile on our faces when we sat down to Shabbat dinner. One of my fondest childhood memories is peeking inside the pot to see what was cooking as the delicious smells coming out of it permeated the house.
For years, this time-honored technique - minus the Descoware, which stopped being manufactured in the mid-70s - was used by modem Jewish mothers who slowly cooked their main courses when entertaining because once it went into the oven, they could forget about it until the timer went off.
Although you'll never find this beloved low and slow technique known as "braising" in the directions for a recipe - food writers are taught to say "simmer, covered" - today's fabulous Jewish chefs have come up with elegant recipes braising more expensive cuts of meat, poultry, and fish and are featuring them on sumptuous prix fixe menus.
Josiah Citrin, chef/owner of the Michelin two-star Melisse restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif., features braised veal cheeks, brisket and short ribs cooked to perfection in a heavy cast iron Staub Dutch oven. In a rustic kitchen in Tel Aviv, Israel, Ido Shapira, the creative, chef/owner of Cutlet Catering, cooks braised Osso Buco lamb shanks in enameled cast iron Le Creuset Dutch Ovens while the chef/owner of the sustainable Akasha restaurant, Akasha Richmond, presents duck legs braised in red wine cooked in "green" stainless steel 360 Cookware, which, she feels, contributes to good health. And cookbook author Paula Wolfert braises Mediterranean and Moroccan dishes in unglazed and glazed clay pots and flameproof ceramic cookware.
Because this age-old technique is both familiar and festive, we asked these chefs for some tips and special recipes because we thought a menu of braised delicacies would be perfect for bar/bat mitzvah weekend entertaining. No matter which main courses you choose, you can still spend the day aiding and abetting your teen, entertaining your favorite aunts Dena and Dorothy, and attending to lastminute bar mitzvah details and still have a juicy, flavorful Shabbat dinner waiting for you and your guests as soon as you open the oven And even though it will look like it, family and friends will never guess that you haven't been slaving in the kitchen all day.
Chef Josiah Citrin practices the art of braising at his contemporary French restaurant and has pondered each step to perfection. As he explained, "Start with a beautiful cut of meat, pat it dry, lightly salt and pepper it, then sear it at a high temperature to lock in the flavor, add herbs, garlic, vegetables and liquid, then place a tight fitting lid on the pot, transfer it to a very low oven and cook it from two to six hours, depending on the cut. When the meat is fork tender, deglaze it with wine, never flour, surround it with roasted vegetables and - voila."
Citrin also braises vegetables and fruits in their own juices. He loves slow cooking big chunks of carrots in cumin, lemon juice, chicken stock and carrot juice; sliced apples get cinnamon, cloves and apple juice; pears are combined with rosemary and pear juice; beets are tossed in oil, coriander seed, dill, lemon and beet juice. All are braised in the oven at the same low temp for 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours or until tender. This produces a beautiful, sweet flavor, he says.
While most chefs use metal pots arici Dutch ovens, Paula Wolfert has been cooking in clay for 50 years, from the time she lived in Morocco in the 1960s. The budding chef adopted the culinary ways of her countrymen, whose recipes called for slower cooking in low heat, and ishe discovered that clay produces a more natural, earthy, richer tasting dish. Her unglazed and glazed clay pot collection numbers in the 10Os, giving her the luxury of cooking in brasiers and casseroles, which are dedicated to just one dish, such as a Duck Confit. This produces amazing flavors, she says. Every time the dish is cooked in the same pot, its flavor is more densely flavored, she says.
Compote of Fennel, Onion, Turkey Bacon and Currants
(meat)
From Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking by Paula Wolfert (Wiley) Inspired by a recipe created by Chef Christian Etienne of Restaurant Christian Etienne, Avignon, France
2 medium-firm fennel bulbs, very thinly sliced
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 ounces thinly sliced kosher turkey bacon or beef fry, shredded
salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup dried currants or raisins
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place fennel, onion, olive oil, turkey bacon, currants, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a glazed earthenware or flameware casserole. Cover with a sheet of crumpled parchment and a lid, and cook, stirring occasionally, over low heat for 1 to 2 hours or until contents are reduced to about 1 scant cup.
Remove cover, raise the heat to medium and gently fry the mixture until it is golden brown and lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. If desired, season with additional salt and pepper to taste. Let the compote stand at room temperature for a few hours to further blend the flavors. Reheat the compote to lukewarm just before serving.
Makes 4 servings.
Braised Beef Short Ribs with Roasted Root Vegetables
From Josiah Citrin, chef/owner of Melisse Restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif. This may also be made with brisket. If the amount of wine seems excessive, remember it reduces into a rich delicious sauce over the long cooking period. You can use less expensive wine or save your old wine in a cool dark place for this special occasion.
5 pounds beef short ribs, trimmed of excess fat
3 bottles red wine
2 bottles ruby red port brought to a boil with red wine
6 cups beef or chicken stock, low sodium, if possible
1 teaspoon crushed black peppercorns
1/2 cup olive oil for shallots
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
5 cloves garlic
1/2 onion, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 celery stalk, trimmed and cut into 1-inch stalks
1 medium leek, cut into 1-inch pieces, rinsed well to remove grit
2 sprigs thyme
6 sprigs Italian parsley
bay leaves
1 tablespoon tomato paste
freshly ground coarse salt and white pepper to taste
vegetable oil for sauteing
In a large sauce pan set over medium heat bring red and port wine to a boil; allow wine to reduce by half. Remove from heat.
Set the oven at 350 degrees. Lightly season the short ribs with salt and black pepper. In a Dutch oven or heavy casserole heat the oil. When hot, lower short ribs into the pot. Sear for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, until well browned. Transfer short ribs to a plate. Remove all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan. Lower heat and toss in the vegetables and herbs. Brown them lightly, 5 to7 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, stirring to blend.
Add wine mixture, stock, and short ribs to the Dutch oven. Bring to a boil, cover, and place in oven. Let meat braise for 3 hours or until the short ribs are tender enough to pierce with a fork.
Strain cooking liquid and scrape fat from the surface. Cut short ribs into 8 equal squares, about 5 to 6 ounces each. Place meat in baking dish, cover with the cooking liquid. Place in the oven, basting often until the short ribs are nicely glazed, about 35 minutes Carefully remove meat to a heated dish, cover and keep warm. Strain liquid through a chinois into a saucepan. If it is too watery reduce until it coats the back of a spoon. About 3/4 cup will remain, season lightly with salt and pepper.
To serve, heat a large platter place short ribs on the.plate drizzle with half the sauce and put the other half in a sauce boat. Arrange vegetables around the brisket.
Makes 8 servings.
Red Wine and Citrus Braised Duck Legs
From Akasha Richmond, chef/owner of Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, Calif.
Author: Levitt, Beverly
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