Tuesday, August 16, 2011

An old cooking technique for today's simchas


In the 1950s and '60s, thrifty Jewish housewives and, especially, my mother, cooked tough cuts of meat and a few carrots and potatoes at a low temperature for endless hours in a bright orange Descoware Dutch oven, confident that she could go away all day and still serve our family a pot roast so tender it would put a smile on our faces when we sat down to Shabbat dinner. One of my fondest childhood memories is peeking inside the pot to see what was cooking as the delicious smells coming out of it permeated the house.


Dutch Ovens when cared for, will last for generations. Be sure your oven has been cleaned and lightly oiled before putting it away. Try to keep your ovens in a dry, warm place. Remember, moisture with cause cast iron to rust. Leave your lids slightly ajar, allowing the air to circulate. I like to store with a paper towel rolled up and sticking out from under the lid. The towel inside the oven acts as a wick and will help absorb moisture.Dutch Oven care begins with seasoning, but it's important to clean them properly after each use. Cleaning cast iron is easier than scrubbing pots and pans. As soon as possible after using your Dutch Oven, scrape out as much food as possible with a plastic scraper. Put 1 - 2 quarts of hot water in your oven and scrub with a plastic scrubbing pad or a vegetable brush. Immediately after washing, dry the oven thoroughly by putting it in your kitchen oven at 150 to 200 degrees for about 10 minutes..RepeatAllow it to heat slowly until it is too hot to handle. Apply a thin layer of salt free cooking oil with a clean cloth to the Dutch oven inside and out.When you think of a cast iron Dutch oven, what comes to your mind? Pioneer cooking? Stews over the open fire?To clean your oven after use, scrape it out, add warm water, without soap, and heat it in the oven until the water is almost boiling.Compote of Fennel, Onion, Turkey Bacon and Currants1 tablespoon tomato paste(meat)2 medium-firm fennel bulbs, very thinly slicedAlthough you'll never find this beloved low and slow technique known as "braising" in the directions for a recipe - food writers are taught to say "simmer, covered" - today's fabulous Jewish chefs have come up with elegant recipes braising more expensive cuts of meat, poultry, and fish and are featuring them on sumptuous prix fixe menus.5 cloves garlicSome cast iron ovens have a protective covering which you will need to remove .Curing ItPurchasing Your Dutch Ovenbay leavesTo understand the temperature and number of briquettes needed takes a little math.Heating Fundimentals1 teaspoon crushed black peppercornsMakes 8 servings.Each briquette adds about 25 degrees of heat.With correct use and proper care, a well seasoned oven produces a unique flavor unequaled by any other cooking utensil. That's the Magic, it looks great and tastes even better!5 pounds beef short ribs, trimmed of excess fatRed Wine and Citrus Braised Duck Legs1 celery stalk, trimmed and cut into 1-inch stalksWhen purchasing your Dutch oven, make sure the lid has a raised ridge.salt and freshly ground black pepperPreparing your Dutch oven in this way prevents rust and makes for much easier cleaning as well2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil6 sprigs Italian parsleyWhile most chefs use metal pots arici Dutch ovens, Paula Wolfert has been cooking in clay for 50 years, from the time she lived in Morocco in the 1960s. The budding chef adopted the culinary ways of her countrymen, whose recipes called for slower cooking in low heat, and ishe discovered that clay produces a more natural, earthy, richer tasting dish. Her unglazed and glazed clay pot collection numbers in the 10Os, giving her the luxury of cooking in brasiers and casseroles, which are dedicated to just one dish, such as a Duck Confit. This produces amazing flavors, she says. Every time the dish is cooked in the same pot, its flavor is more densely flavored, she says.From Akasha Richmond, chef/owner of Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, Calif.Braised Beef Short Ribs with Roasted Root VegetablesOf coarse both are true, but they are still very much in use today and as for the Dutch oven, the possibilities are endless.2 sprigs thymeCitrin also braises vegetables and fruits in their own juices. He loves slow cooking big chunks of carrots in cumin, lemon juice, chicken stock and carrot juice; sliced apples get cinnamon, cloves and apple juice; pears are combined with rosemary and pear juice; beets are tossed in oil, coriander seed, dill, lemon and beet juice. All are braised in the oven at the same low temp for 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours or until tender. This produces a beautiful, sweet flavor, he says.To figure out how many briquettes to use, take the size of the oven in inches, and subract three to get the number of briquettes for under it, and add three to get the number of briquettes for the top.Makes 4 servings.vegetable oil for sauteingIn which case you would want all the heat on the bottom.For preparing stews, use one on the top for every 4 on the bottom. When roasting, put briquettes on the top and bottom evenly.1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch piecesPlace fennel, onion, olive oil, turkey bacon, currants, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a glazed earthenware or flameware casserole. Cover with a sheet of crumpled parchment and a lid, and cook, stirring occasionally, over low heat for 1 to 2 hours or until contents are reduced to about 1 scant cup.freshly ground coarse salt and white pepper to tasteChef Josiah Citrin practices the art of braising at his contemporary French restaurant and has pondered each step to perfection. As he explained, "Start with a beautiful cut of meat, pat it dry, lightly salt and pepper it, then sear it at a high temperature to lock in the flavor, add herbs, garlic, vegetables and liquid, then place a tight fitting lid on the pot, transfer it to a very low oven and cook it from two to six hours, depending on the cut. When the meat is fork tender, deglaze it with wine, never flour, surround it with roasted vegetables and - voila."Put one briquette on the bottom for every 3 on the top of the lid.Best Temperature

From Akasha Richmond, chef/owner of Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, Calif.




Author: Levitt, Beverly


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